Just to make sure I have the situation correct:

You filled a tub that you don’t normally use with water (for an emergency supply). A day or so later, the ceiling and wall directly below the tub are soaked. You then drained the water. 20 minutes later you still hear dripping so wonder if it was the water in the tub or something else.

It’s possible the supply line to the tub faucet cracked or otherwise started leaking when you filled the tub, but it seems much more likely that the water in the tub was the source.

The drain was plugged when the leak occurred, so the drain lines themselves are unlikely to be the issue.

This is a fiberglass/plastic tub, right? I think the tub itself is slowly leaking either from a hairline crack or from around the outside edge of the drain. This leak slowly soaked and pooled on the floor beneath the tub. Now you are hearing that pooled water drip down.

I’d do a careful crawl of the tub and see if you can find anything that appears to be a crack.

I’d keep listening to the drip rate in the wall and see if it’s subsiding. Hopefully it is. At that point, it’s figuring out what, if anything you can do for mitigation. My first thought is heat and airflow in the room with soaked walls/ceilings.

I typed in the url and… yeah, that was A LOT of boobs and butts.

Came back here to see that I mistyped the url. Doubling the “O” results in many boobs and butts.

Are you logged in? It appears you can go to the privacy settings page and set some (not all) settings without being logged in.

Thanks. I just went and disabled it. I also found that they had “products and services notifications” turned on. I know I attempted to disable all advertising and monitoring stuff shortly after I signed up, but I can’t say for sure whether I had missed this section at that time or if they kindly turned it on for me between then and now.

I suspect that there is “palm check” turned on for your touchpad. This is designed to keep you from accidentally moving/clicking the touchpad by brushing it with your palm while you are typing.

Look for a “palm check”, “palm rejection”, or “disable touchpad when typing” setting in your touchpad utility. As far as I know, these are all roughly the same thing.

Also why the fuck would they charge for it?

Because they have long since moved away from selling worthwhile products to selling anything they can trick people into buying. Providing value is no longer a concern, only short-term profit.

If the others suggested aren’t quite right for you, you might try looking for an interval timer app. These are generally used for fitness, but it seems to me that type of setup might do exactly what you want if you just set up a “workout” that has a single 30 min interval and repeats.

Some replies in the Reddit thread confirmed that they had also gotten their money back, while others claimed that their request for a refund was denied, so the decision seems to be made on a case-by-case basis.

If you look for a “watt meter plug”, you’ll pribably understand what it is at a glance. It’s a device you plug into your wall outlet (or surge protector or whatever). It has a power outlet on it, which you plug your device into, and a screen that shows watts drawn and watt-hours over time. Super simple. I think “Kill A Watt” is the most well known brand.

Agreed. I strongly dislike Elon and think he is a thin skinned trust fund baby who is destroying Tesla and already destroyed Twitter. I wouldn’t be surprised in the least to find out he is using sock accounts to praise himself… but in this article all I see are people making accusations without solid evidence. Yes, it appears he banned the guy accusing him but we already know that Elon will ban his critics whether or not those critics’ accusations are real. There is nothing here showing that the account is anything but one of his braindead fanboys.

It’s one thing to take these accusations and try to find solid evidence. It’s another to treat the accusations as solid evidence itself. Let’s be better than the conspiracy theorists.

My friends and I called all annoying companion/escort characters “Buttfuck”. Natalia was the buttfuckiest Buttfuck.

Someone bought a pallet of returned products and found this as one of the returned products. So what?

It is important to note that this pretty useless concoction of non-working parts – dressed up as one of the best graphics cards available to consumers in 2024 – wasn’t sold as a new model. It was received by an NWR customer in a pallet deal from Amazon Returns.

…

We can’t know for sure, but the product received by NWR, apparently from an Amazon pallet deal, may have been an Amazon return where a faulty Franken-graphics-card was returned and someone kept a good working one. The outward description of a cracked PCB and melted power connector might even suggest another level of deception used to return this switched product.

Yes. It looks like !support@lemmy.world is the community to post a mod request on. From the sidebar of that community:

• There is a community I want to moderate, but the moderators appear to be inactive.

Please email us at info@lemmy.world or create a post in this community.

I would post and then email info@lemmy.world with a link to the post to get the admins/mods attention.

Agreed. A lot of people in this thread are confusing what they believe should be illegal discrimination with what is actually illegal discrimination. Or they believe discrimination laws are more broadly encompassing than they are. There are a lot of kinds of discrimination that most of us agree is bad and shouldn’t be allowed… but unfortunately is not illegal.

Ambrosia probably provided me the most hours of gaming entertainment over the 90s. They published Mac software and, if I remember correctly, most of their games were shareware and the non-paid versions were pretty well featured.

I wonder how many hundreds of hours I played Escape Velocity and Escape Velocity Override. Those were some absolutely amazing games and they supported plugins (mods) and had a thriving mod community.

For the 90s mac users, you’ll probably recognize a lot of their games (listed on the Wikipedia page). Here are some from the 90s that stand out to me:

Maelstrom

Chiral

Apeiron

Swoop

Barrack

Escape Velocity

Avara

Bubble Trouble

Harry the Handsome Executive

Mars Rising

EV Override

Ares

Escape Velocity Nova

I don’t think you understand how spread out rural America is. A lot of areas have tiny grocery stores to support a small population spread over a wide area.

Just in case: what about my question (1)? You are plugged in to a line in and not a mic in, right?

I’m pretty sure ground loop can’t occur on a laptop when it isn’t plugged in to the wall for power. From a quick search, this seems to confirm that:

Power Supply

A low quality power supply unit can lead to ground loop noise, particularly on laptops. Disconnect your computer from your power supply so that it runs on battery power and verify if this resolves the issue. If you are going to use a replacement power supply unit, make sure that its specifications meet the ones required by your computer in order to avoid permanent damage.

I’m seeing that, beyond ground loop, noise like this is probably some other form of EMI (electromagnetic interference), often from bad capacitors. I don’t really have experience there.

I’m sure enough that the ground loop isolator won’t work that it will probably work. So try it!

If that doesn’t work, I think a USB audio interface is the next solution. Since you were still getting hum (albeit less) when plugged in to the the monitor, a new interface from the laptop should work.

Dang. Also, that’s a weird result. There are different standards for trrs jacks, but I can’t think of any way that could result in losing one of the L/R channels when going through that adapter.

1. are you sure you are plugged in to a “line in” and not a “mic in” on your PC? If it’s a mic in, I think it’s just a mono TS jack, which would explain all the noise and weirdness. A mic in will not work for your purpose.

2. On your laptop, do you know if you are able to set the type of device you have plugged in to the headphone jack? It may be possible to set the jack for “headphones”, headset”, or “microphone”. Having the wrong setting there could be a problem.

https://superuser.com/questions/1487112/trying-to-switch-my-headphone-jack-settings-in-windows-10

3. if you are able, on the laptop, mute your mic.

4. I don’t thing the ground loop isolator will fix it, but I’ve run into plenty of “that shouldn’t work… but it did” situations. No harm in trying.

Possible, but I wouldn’t bet on it.

If you want to do more testing while you wait for parts…

See if you can find a substitute device to act as the “laptop” in your setup (something that is putting audio out over a 3.5mm headset jack) and plug into the Pc to see if the issue is still occurring.

Then see if you can find a substitute “desktop” (something with line in) to see if things work. Depending on results you may be able to better isolate where the problem is… I suspect it’s the cabling and the solution will work, but this test may show there is an issue specific to one of your devices.

I think there’s a good chance it will work… but to be clear I’m not positive this will solve it. Fingers crossed! And please let me know if it works. I’m happy to help you keep troubleshooting if it doesn’t.